Cairo and LuxorClick on the symbol above to see the Photos for Day 1 and 2 Day 1I arrived in Cairo on Friday October 3 2002, three days before the tour started. The first morning, I was met at the airport and taken to the Indiana Hotel. After having a shower and attempting to dress for the heat, I decided to go and get some cash, and have a look around. Reception recommended the Sheraton for ATMs, so feeling particularly intrepid, I set out for a wander. On the way, I met Sharif (who I'm sure patrols the area!!!), and was persuaded to let him take me to the Pyramids, via his papyrus shop of course. Well this is one of the things the guidebooks (and common sense) tell you not to do, but it all worked out well. Once at the pyramids, I was put on a rather lovely grey arabian horse, and taken out into the desert, where I was told the price would be 240 Egyptian pounds for half an hour!!! Well, not having much option at that stage (and having been assured by Sharif that that was good deal, and he was paying too - just as soon as we got back), I paid. Oddly, when we got back, Sharif disappeared inside and came out counting cash.....hmm, kickback anyone???? Oh well, I was conned, but it was all done in such a charming way, and he was such a gentleman about it all, that I didn't feel remotely annoyed, and I guess everyone has to make money somehow! Anyway, had a wonderful ride on Egypt's most expensive horse, and in retrospect, I'm so glad I did, because of all the rolls of film I took, I lost the one of the day we went to the pyramids - at least this way I still had some Photos of them We rode around all three pyramids, and I had a brief, unscheduled gallop up a sand dune (the horse got fed up with my attempts at a slow careful dressage trot!). Sharif dropped me back at the hotel, but was to be found outside the hotel every time I left for the next few days - he was always unfailingly polite though, and was awfully useful when it came to crossing roads! Day 2So, the next day I had breakfast (rolls, eggs and ham - very nice food), and then wandered over to the Museum of Antiquities, which hadn't changed much since I last saw it. I was surprised to find that I felt remarkably safe wandering the streets - even on my own with blonde hair, which was certainly a change from when we were there in 1980, when all three of us children had our hair pulled out in handfuls - I guess the increased tourism since then has lessened the novelty value. The museum had really amazing stuff, but still mostly unlabelled - which may actually add to the atmosphere I guess, since I could decide the history of whatever I was looking at without reference to fact or history! After that I went for lunch at the Nile Hilton, and met a German girl who was over there for six months studying Arabic. Constance took me round downtown Cairo for the afternoon, and after a few drinks in the evening, I headed back to the hotel at about 6pm. Decided to have a quick snooze...which lasted until 5am...... Day 3The following morning, made an abortive attempt to get to the Khan-al-Khalili, which ended up being a round trip back to the hotel, due to my very poor (ok, non-existent) Arabic, and the driver's similar grasp of English. Oh well. It was Armed Forces day, so there were army and police everywhere, and I got yelled at for taking a photo of Shepheard's hotel - not armed forces people, just the building - so I gave up sightseeing and went and lay by the pool for the day. That afternoon, Julia (our Tour Leader) arrived at my door - we were sharing a room (which changed later as one of the girls booked on the tour didn't turn up, so I ended up sharing with Deanna). And that evening, we all met up at the Rooftop bar at the hotel, except for some of the english guys that hadn't arrived yet. The rooftop bar was amazing - fantastic views over the city, and loads of cold beer. Decided I really liked Egyptian Stella. Day 4 - 5Click on the symbol above to see the Photos for Day 4 and 5
The next morning we met up for breakfast, and then headed out to the Pyramids. Wandered round the pyramids and sphinx (or Sphinkus as the Egyptians call it....), and then back to the hotel. A few of us went off to the local internet cafe to check emails, and send updates, before catching the overnight train to Luxor. The trains were surprisingly comfortable, with business class style seats. Never travelling without a travel pillow again though! Woke up to sunrise over the Nile Valley. Once at Luxor, we decided to head straight out to the Temple of Amun at Karnak, to attempt to beat the afternoon heat. Mustafa was our guide, and did a superb job of keeping us interested, despite the heat, which was intense even that early. The avenue of sphinxes was exactly as I imagined it, as was the Great Hypostyle hall - although you can't imagine the heat - it always looks kind of cool and shady on film! We rode carriages out there and back, with the horses in really remarkably good condition - I even saw a fat pony! That's all thanks to the Brooke Animal Hospital, which has a branch in Luxor, and puts up shelters and water troughs around the town, as well as offering free medical treatment. We all went for a lunch to an Italian restaurant (well, ok, it wasn't authentic Egypt, but we felt like pizza!!!), and wandered round the bazaars in the afternoon, then went back to the hotel and swimming pool... That evening, a few people went to the sound and light show at Karnak - I went shopping with Jim and Deanna. Didn't get much, although Jim did pretty well bargaining for a leather camel (after discovering anew bargaining technique of pretending I was his evil wife with all his money!) and Deanna got a henna tattoo. On the way back, Jim got a lot of attention for having two wives - and tried to trade me for a carriage ride.... Day 6Click on the symbol above to see the Photos for Day 6
Donkey Day! One of my favourite days, despite the early start. Got up at 4:30 am to head over the river to the West Bank to meet up with our donkeys. I got a lovely biscuit coloured one, although unfortunately Chris's donkey appeared to hate mine and kept barging into it! They are easier to ride than I expected, not unlike a little pony trot, and we wandered out through villages, past Howard Carter's house and on to the Valley of Kings. Mustafa was there waiting for us, and took us around three tombs (rolling his eyes frequently at some of the stories the other guides were telling their groups!). Saw some amazing hieroglyphics, and sarcophagi, and tried not to melt in the heat! It was quite surreal being there, and wondering how many other undiscovered tombs there might be. Afterwards, we had to climb the steepest hill I've ever seen - which Steve decided to run up and disgustingly didn't even appear to break a sweat......I, on the other hand, nearly died, kept panting like a dog, and then decided to indulge in a little asthma attack half way up.....oh well. Eventually made it to the top, and was reunited with my donkey - never been so glad to see anything in my life. Rode along the top of an 800m high cliff all the way round above Deir al Medina and Deir al Bahri ( Hatshepsut's Temple) and the Valley of Queens. Then back to the motor launch to go and join the Amy cruise boat in time for lunch.
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